Nicaragua

Nicaragua is missed by many boaters either due to insurance, or because of COVID requirements that make it more cumbersome to enter. A PCR test is required, and there aren’t many places to get this test close to shore in Guatemala, El Salvador or Honduras, which are the countries before Nicaragua on the way south. We managed it as described in the previous post and we are glad we did! We first stopped at Puesta del Sol, a marina owned by a US citizen but Nicarguan native who is now 90 yrs old. He lives on his 46 foot boat in the marina with his wife. He developed the marina to bring more tourism into his native country but this proved to be an issue as recent political turmoil and COVID regulations (stiffer here than other central american countries) has halted tourism. The process of checking into the country is quite elaborate. First a doctor (see pic) had to travel from the city to pick up our PCR test and ask us if we were feeling ok (notice the stethoscope and white lab jacket! :) The next morning five people from immigration drove 2 hours from the town of Corinto to check us in. They were all at different tables and we went from table to table signing forms. They use carbon copy, seemed very busy and they were quite stoic about the whole process. Thirty minutes later we were cleared. Why is it so much easier when you fly into a country??

Picking up Covid tests is a serious business! :) 

 This marina was empty other than one other US flagged boat and a handful of local boats. We enjoyed it even with the lack of activity. The Nicaraguan people we met here were really nice and the marina was quite pristine. It is located in a protected bay/estuary. The grounds included a pool, immigration on site(made clearing into the country more efficient), tennis court, and wonderful palapa restaurant overlooking the water. We ate the local food of beans, rice, meat and fried plantains and drank their good rum in the form of a Cuba Libre! (a fancy word for rum and coke). A vegetable truck comes into the marina grounds a few times a week so we were able to buy our vegetables. The veggies were piled high and three young Nicaraguan men sold me my produce. One of the nice fellows carried my purchases to our boat! 

Puesta de Sol marina is in a calm estuary 

We left at 4:30 pm on Monday, April 4th for our last overnight voyage (hopefully). We saw a lot of panga fishing boats overnight, dodging them left and right. Most had lights which made it easier. Unfortunately we did catch a fishing net (impossible to see at night) but our cutter on the prop cut it, and Darryn had to swim under the boat later to cut the rest of it off! Most boaters in this area eventually catch a net, especially if traveling at night. 

We arrived in San Juan del Sur late afternoon the next day. A very windy, rolly bay! But what a great little surf town! Lots of expats here. The bay had lots of anchored pangas and a few other trawler type boats. There was a great dock to tie up the dingy when we went to town. A long winding beach with restaurant after restaurant (all very local and casual) and other shops and stores. We ate at Vivian’s on the beach the first night. I had an amazing seafood paella (see pic) and Darryn had lobster. We watched the sunset and enjoyed the bustle of the beach, restaurant and the town. The beer of this country is Victoria and Tonia. We love trying the new beers as we travel. We found a store by the dock called Dockside, which was a store, cafe and bar. The owner of this store is a guy from England who lives in town with his family. We traded in our kayaks for two paddle boards which we have been wanting to do for a while. We tied them to our dinghy to transport them back to the boat! (See pic). It was a bit challenging due to the winds but we made it back. We are super excited to try them out! The immigration officials here were not very friendly at first, we were a bit taken back by their army fatigues, machine guns and attitude. The port captain didn’t even seem to understand how to clear us in and out. It wasn’t the smoothest but we finally got cleared. We enjoyed our evening eating at a restaurant we found on the dock, which we later were told was opened by a James Beard chef! It was a fusion restaurant and it was delicious! 

Darryn playing with Murf on the beach at San Juan del Sur

The first night in San Juan del Sur, Cuba Libre's (the local drink) overlooking the bay.

Vivian's restaurant at sunset

 Paella at Vivian's

Dockside...the cool store/cafe/bar 

A daytime view of the bay from the dock

Pulling our new paddle boards back to the boat. A bit challenging with the wind!

 All in all Nicaragua was a great experience. It is sad that their government keeps them from expanding tourism as the weather is wonderful and so are the people. They have the highest poverty level in Central America so tourism sure would help raise the standard of living. San Juan del Sur is the only place in Nicaragua that has a tourist feel to it, and even that is only because of the large amount of expats. The Panama Canal was very close to being in Nicaragua, which would have changed things dramatically for this country. I guess we will see what the future brings.