Panama & The Panama Canal
Panama…what do you think of? How is it different than Costa Rica and the other Central American countries? Costa Rica and Panama have similar weather but that is where the similarities end. Panama is known for its many beautiful islands and the canal. It's very hot and humid(most days 90+,) and lots of bugs. Because it is the beginning of the rainy season, there has been rain daily with thunder and lightening. The mix of people is interesting here due to the building of the Panama Canal. Quite a few from Jamaica and other islands in the Caribbean and others from different parts of Europe which results in a lot of diversity. The Panama Canal, built between 1904-1914, is a huge part of the economy. Every day the canal runs 24/7 making it possible for big freighters and pleasure boats to cross from the Pacific to the Atlantic or vice versa. This has had a huge impact on the world economy. The French started the canal and the US finished it. As a result the US had control of the canal until the 80's and there was a lot of US influence. Panama's currency is the US dollar. Panama now has full control over the canal and their country. More on our transit through the canal later in this blog entry!
We arrived in Panama on April 30th. We anchored off Isla Parida which is part of a cluster of islands. We found a perfect anchor spot right off a white sand beach with palm trees. The islands are very lush and green, partly because of it being the rainy season. The next day we paddle boarded to shore and enjoyed the sun, water and sand with the locals. The locals take pangas to this island, it is a favorite according to a local we talked to. We heard there was a restaurant on an adjacent island so we took our dinghy over to it to explore. We saw one colorful building off the shore. It was a cool little restaurant run by a few locals, catering to the beach goers. We had fresh tuna steaks, rice and beans and of course the local Panama beer! We took a nice stroll along the beach with Murf. The next day we cruised into Boca Chica. On the way there I saw a few jumping dolphins alongside our boat. They jumped at least 8 ft. above the water, the highest I have seen! Boca Chica is a town, but a very small one, in an estuary. with many little islands. It was tough getting in, as there are lots of shoals and shallow areas. We meandered our way in and found a place to anchor. There were some cool houses on the hills that we could see from the water. The following day we had to venture to Boca Chica to a marina (well kind of a marina, it has a dock and a few mooring balls) to find our Panama agent, Carlos. He lives on the property in a house with his family and owns the so called marina. Carlos, originally from Columbia, was our liaison to get us through the immigration process. Two medical guys, one a doctor, drove 1-1/2 hours (they were 1-1/2 hours late) to ask us a few covid questions (do you have a cough or fever, have you been with anyone who has covid etc.) and we signed off. The second form asked us questions like “has anyone died, except for accidents, on your boat?” Um…no! Anyhow, Carlos offered us all a beer while this 5 minute procedure took place on a picnic table in his yard at the marina. The casualness of Central America!
The following day we had to go to immigration, which was close to the town of David, about 50 minutes away. Carlos’ nephew George drove us into town to run our errands and provision. George is 30 years old and very inquisitive. We chatted about music, business, groceries, Panama….all in broken English. We did our best with our limited Spanish as well. It was fun!
A restaurant out on an island that isn't inhabited! Fresh tuna steaks :)
The view from the island restaurant
We left the next morning and decided along the way to do an overnight and go straight to Panama City due to the great weather conditions and the need to go around a point, Punta Mala, which can be treacherous if the weather isn’t good. So much for no more overnights! The beginning of the voyage was good, we passed so many lush islands, so beautiful! But then we hit some high swells about 9:00 pm. The night was very rolly, made sleeping during our driving shifts impossible. In the morning, the swells got worse the closer we approached Punta Mala (Evil Point) with some as high as 15- 18 ft from trough to crest! With 6000 miles on our boat so far, this was the worst! Darryn drove manually to ride the swells so they didn’t control the boat. He kept them from hitting us at the wrong angle, which is very uncomfortable and moves everything on the boat! After rounding the “Evil Point” the swells mellowed and things were smooth into the bay of Panama. This is the entry bay to the Panama Canal! We headed to Panama City to get measured for our canal crossing and spend a few nights in the city. Panama City has a stunning view from the water. It is a very large city, and fairly clean and progressive. We stayed at Flamenco Marina, which is on an island that is connected by a major road to the city. Most of the boats in the marina were local. We enjoyed our time exploring the city. We went the Canal Museum, which brought us through the history of the canal. This was a nice review for Darryn and I since we just finished the book “A Path Between Two Seas” which gives a detailed account of the history of the canal. The museum was in the old part of town that still has the colonial buildings from long ago. It was very charming with restaurants and gift shops peppered throughout the colorful buildings. There were some of the ruins from the original city that was burned down by Captain Morgan back in 1671. We also made it into the bigger part of the city to a few restaurants, and to a mall, the vet, and a few other places.The city looks like a typical city, with nice areas and not so nice areas. We also made it to the Panama Canal Milaflores Locks to watch ships/boats coming through the canal. It was quite fascinating to watch them going through the locks that we were preparing for. We wanted to see for ourselves before our voyage through it on May 17th! We did get measured and Darryn met with our canal agent, Erik, to make sure everything was set for our transit date. We will need to pick up an advisor and four line handlers the morning of our transit to guide us through the canal…4:00 am!
Going around Punta Mal! (Evil Point). Check out the high swell!
Panama City
Panama City Oceanfront
Our marina is on this island, you can't see it from this picture but check out the long road that cuts through the water into the city!
The Canal Museum...these were used to dig up rock for the canal!
Canal Museum - this was an original lighthouse lens
Ruins from the original city - burned down by Captain Morgan
The colonial buildings in Old Town
The main church in Old Town
Milaflores Locks - Watching from the sides before our canal transit
Milaflores Locks - Murf made lots of friends!
We had lots of prep work to get the boat ready for our crossing in the canal, so we decided to take a break by cruising to Las Perlas Islands (Pearl Islands) for the weekend of May 13-15. It was a six hour journey, we left at 6:30 am to get there in time to enjoy our time there. The islands are beautiful! The show "Survivor" was filmed on one of the islands. We anchored outside of Isla Contadora, a mile Long Island with beautiful homes, resort and air strip. We jumped off the boat immediately after anchoring for a dip (after all it is 90+ and humid) and took a dinghy tour around the island. We found a beach to play fetch with Murf (she loves swimming in the ocean) and we swam ourselves. The water was so clear and blue! Day 2 and 3 of islands was more exploring and island hopping. Most are not inhabited. The second night we anchored in an area where there was no human or boat to be seen and the water was tranquil as can be. It is always a neat feeling being away from civilization for a while. Peaceful.
A Mexican sailboat in Panama Bay
On our way out to the islands Darryn had some work to do in the anchor locker
Anchoring is so relaxing - cooking dinner
Dinner at anchor on the boat in Las Perlas Islands
A dinghy ride in Las Perlas Islands
Las Perlas Islands
The Panama Canal
On May 17th we transited the Panama Canal! What an amazing day this was for us! At 4:00 am our line handlers met up with us at our marina (Flamenco). All four were local young men from Colon, only one spoke English. We then picked up our advisor/pilot, Hector, out at buoy 6 in Flamenco anchorage. He had to jump from the pilot boat to our boat...literally. He was local as well. Onward to the entrance of the canal in the dark and rain. Entered the canal at 6:00 am and went through our first 2 locks, Miraflores, at approximately 7:00 am, and the 3rd, Pedro Miguel shortly after. The canal has six locks, three up and three down. Each one raises or lowers you roughly 30 feet, and requires 26,000,000 gallons of water to be filled or drained to raise or lower you that 30 feet! Amazing that the technology is over 100 years old and works flawlessly every day, no pumps, all gravity. At this point we are about 90 feet above sea level, and head into the famous Culebra Cut, leading to Gatun Lake, a man made lake created by damming the Chagres River. Passed 20 or so large boats, mostly 600 plus ft. tankers and freighters. 40-45 boats transit the canal daily, 20 or so in each direction. On this day we saw no other pleasure craft. In one lock, an 800 foot freighter we shared the lock with forgot we were 50 feet behind them and exited the lock a bit too fast, causing prop wash that tossed our boat around (a mere 30 tons!) and nearly snapped our lines! Exciting. Around 5pm we entered the 3 chambers of the Gatun Locks, and by 6pm we cruised out and into the Atlantic Ocean! A very big moment for us, and for most long range cruisers. 6400 miles of cruising since leaving Seattle in September of 2020, and so many great experiences on the Pacific! Now it's time for new Atlantic adventures!
6:00 am May 17th - Entering the Panama Canal in the rain!
Bridge of the Americas...on the way into the canal
Milaflores Locks
The crew! All locals from Colon. Great guys!
Ship and Tug in front of us
Murf on the bow admiring the cargo ship!
Captain Darryn keeping us safe!
We made it to the Atlantic Ocean around 4:30 p.m.
Curandera is now in Shelter Bay Marina(outside Colon) on the Atlantic side, up on the hard, waiting for our return in late October. Check back in November for updates from the Carribean!